Maun & Moremi
There are beautiful, wooded areas in the Moremi Game Reserve.
In previous columns, we have spoken much about the Chobe National Park. Another phenomenal park in Botswana is the Moremi Game Reserve. To access this park, one usually drives to Maun and then up into the park. Since the December holidays are not far off, we thought we would quickly give this area some airtime before continuing on the subject of passes. The peak season is effectively over, but it’s always a great time to visit this part of the world – although some months can be more challenging than others. October can be brutal in terms of heat, but it cools a little once the rains begin. Always check the water levels, as both flooding and rains can adversely affect the network of dusty tracks covering the area…
Wildebeest starting to head into what shade is available as the day heats up.
Maun is the fourth largest town in Botswana, with a population of approximately 85,350. I have always considered it a “frontier town” – and it truly is the gateway to the Okavango Delta and the large wilderness areas surrounding it. Back in the day, Maun had a reputation as a hard living ‘Wild West’ town and used to be the economic centre of local cattle ranching and hunting operations. These days, tourism is the name of the game. Maun, like the rest of Botswana, is in the grip of a drought that is said to be the worst experienced in the last 100 years. It is, even in the best of years, a dusty town, especially at this time of the year, with donkeys wandering around and Toyota Land Cruisers in every direction. Traditional huts exist right alongside the few modern buildings, and the casual air of the ‘village’ belies the frenetic activity of the tourism industry which bubbles beneath the surface. Maun has, over the years, spread along the Thamalakane River, which is currently a thin sliver of its former glory.
The bar at Grays Eden is the perfect spot for an ice-cold cocktail before lunch.
There is a new hotel which has been built on the banks of this river. It was officially opened in August. Designed for the discerning guest, it is known as “Grays Eden”, and offers fine dining on a beautiful veranda, where we enjoyed a sumptuous lunch. It is quiet, has impeccable service, and offers a wonderful selection of cocktails and a perfectly respectable wine list. Operated by Ker & Downey, I can highly recommend it as special treat for a civilised lunch prior to leaving on safari.
The beautiful veranda overlooking what is left of the Thamalakane River.
The entrance to Marc’s Eatery.
Another restaurant worth mentioning is Marc’s Eatery. We had dinner there, and it was simply sublime… In Marc’s own words, “There is a reason I call it an Eatery. Real home cooking. Everything from breads to veg stock cubes are made at the Eatery. My life of travels is reflected in the menu. Mediterranean, North African, Middle Eastern. My ethos is that the Eatery is like home! Eat with your hands, lick your plate – just all good, honest homemade food.” We had the Beef Short Ribs, which fell off the bone and melted in your mouth. My ribs were served with Arabian couscous, which had apricots, pumpkin seeds and various other delicious bits and bobs. A truly worthwhile eating experience!
Marc’s Eatery is a festive little restaurant after dark.
Within the larger UNESCO listed Okavango Delta Game Reserve, the Moremi covers about 40% of the Okavango and was proclaimed a “game reserve” on 15 March 1963, making it the oldest and first protected reserve of the Delta.
Lions doing lion things i.e. sleeping.
The access road from Maun to the Moremi Game Reserve is a long, dusty road in extremely poor condition. There is only tar up to the village of Shorobe, roughly 20km after which you reach the Veterinary Control Fence (often simply called the “buffalo fence”).
Red lechwe are a common sight.
Continuing on, you eventually reach the Moremi. At the moment, allow at least two and a half hours for this demanding drive. You could also simply book a flight and pop into one of the many stunning lodges, but more of that next week…
Buffaloes enjoying the cool of the river.
Although the Moremi is currently incredibly dry, the Khwai river was running strongly. Consequently, the green belt along the river was a magnet for a large variety of animals and birds, and provided a very rewarding game drive.
Zebra along the green belt created by the Khwai river. Many are heavily pregnant at this time of the year…
We entered at North Gate (Khwai) and initially turned right, running along the river all the way to Dombo Hippo Pools.
The info board at the entrance to North Gate,
In the afternoon, we turned left and followed the river in that direction.
All in all, a thoroughly rewarding experience…
Jacqui Ikin & The Cross Country Team