Howick Falls

Howick Falls

We are blessed with an extraordinary diversity of landscapes. From the stark beauty of the desert to the life-giving waterways of the delta; from vast savannahs teeming with wildlife to ancient forests alive with birdsong; from rugged mountain ranges to endless plains stretching beyond the horizon. Yet, among all these natural wonders, perhaps none capture the imagination quite like our waterfalls.

We have literally hundreds of waterfalls scattered across Southern Africa. Some are small and seasonal, appearing only after good rains before disappearing once more into the landscape. Others, however, are truly spectacular. Among them are the iconic Howick Falls in the Natal Midlands.

The Marketplace leading to the falls.

As is often the case with natural landmarks, accounts vary slightly, but the general consensus places the height of Howick Falls between 95 and 111 metres. To put that into perspective, Victoria Falls – one of the world’s greatest natural wonders – ranges in height from approximately 70 metres at Devil’s Cataract to 108 metres at Rainbow Falls. While Howick Falls cannot compete with Victoria Falls in terms of width or sheer volume of water, its height places it firmly among Southern Africa’s most impressive waterfalls.

Howick Falls is located on the Umgeni (or uMngeni) River, a vital 232-kilometer waterway that supplies water to over six million people. The Zulu people call it KwaNogqaza, meaning “Place of the Tall One”. Worldwide, it is one of the few major waterfalls located directly within a town’s central business district.

Viewpoint at the falls.

I remember an epic day many, many years ago where we rafted the Zambezi. One of the defining memories was all the tales of the legendary serpent at Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River – known as Nyami Nyami, one of the most important gods of the people living along the Zambezi  (also known as the Zambezi River God). The legend is  detailed in the info block below.

Across traditional African belief systems, water and serpents are powerful, interconnected symbols of life, creation, and spiritual duality. Howick Falls are no different, and local legend says the turbulent pool at the bottom of the falls is inhabited by the Inkanyamba, a giant serpent-like creature with descriptions often comparing its head to that of a horse or zebra. This massive, carnivorous creature is considered to be over 20 feet long, capable of shapeshifting, creating severe turbulence and controlling weather. As such, only sangomas (as opposed to ordinary citizens) are safe approaching the water. 

The “no drag racing” rule was particularly intriguing…

In traditional Southern African healing, the initiation process (ukuthwasa) is deeply connected to water and serpent symbolism. It is widely believed that certain initiates (thwasas) are called by ancestors to spend time underwater with sacred river snakes to receive spiritual healing and sacred knowledge. Howick Falls (KwaNogqaza) is highly sacred to traditional healers and initiations (ukuthwasa) involving abanikazi bamanzi (water spirits) often occur here.              

Howick Falls also has a darker side to its history. Since the first recorded suicide at the site in 1851, shortly after its discovery by European settlers, more than 40 deaths have been documented. While the falls have been the scene of accidental fatalities and even the occasional murder, the majority of these tragic incidents have been suicides.

Interesting directional signs to other significant falls around the world…

The frequency of such events gave rise to an air of unease among many local residents during the nineteenth century. Some came to believe that the falls possessed a mysterious and unsettling pull, drawing vulnerable individuals towards its edge. Whether viewed as folklore or a reflection of the community’s attempts to make sense of repeated tragedies, these stories became woven into the history of the falls, adding a sombre dimension to a place otherwise celebrated for its natural beauty.

No visit to Howick Falls is complete without spending some time exploring the bustling marketplace that lines the approach to the viewing area. A vibrant showcase of local creativity and entrepreneurial spirit, the market is home to dozens of stalls selling handcrafted curios, beadwork, wire art, wood carvings, jewellery, textiles, and other uniquely South African souvenirs.

The Howick Museum.

Adjacent to the falls is the Howick Museum, a fascinating repository of local history that chronicles the town’s evolution from a small village established in the 1840s into the thriving settlement it is today. Its well-curated exhibits include vintage agricultural implements, period clothing, and a collection of British military artefacts and insignia dating back to the Anglo-Boer War era.

Visitors will also find intriguing information about Howick Falls itself, along with a wealth of stories and insights into the people and events that helped shape the region. The museum offers an engaging glimpse into the Midlands’ rich heritage and is well worth a visit for anyone interested in history. Admission is free, although donations are welcomed and help support the preservation of this valuable community resource.

The Triumph of the Human Spirit monument.

Located in the gardens of the Howick Museum, the Triumph of the Human Spirit monument stands as a powerful tribute to the resilience, sacrifice, and enduring legacy of the more than 2,000 indentured Indian labourers who settled and worked in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. Spearheaded by the 1860 Legacy Foundation and officially unveiled in February 2025, the memorial honours the men, women, and children who arrived in South Africa from 1860 onwards in search of a better future.

Many of these early pioneers undertook arduous work on farms, railways, and in domestic service, often under extremely challenging conditions. Through determination, hard work, and perseverance, they not only built new lives for themselves and their families but also made a significant contribution to the economic and social development of the region. Today, the monument serves as a reminder of their struggles, achievements, and the lasting impact they have had on the cultural fabric of KwaZulu-Natal and South Africa as a whole.

View of the Howick Falls clearly showing the pool at the base.

More than a century after Mark Twain stood in awe of Howick Falls during his 1896 visit to South Africa, the waterfall continues to captivate those who make the journey to its edge. Twain later recorded his impressions in Following the Equator, ensuring that the falls would find a place in the pages of one of the world’s most celebrated travel writers. Today, Howick Falls attracts thousands of visitors each year, drawn by its dramatic beauty, rich history, cultural significance, and enduring sense of mystery. Whether you come for the scenery, the stories, or simply to experience one of Southern Africa’s most remarkable natural landmarks, Howick Falls leaves a lasting impression long after the roar of the water has faded from memory.

Jacqui Ikin & The Cross Country Team

INFO BLOCK:

Waterfalls of the world:
https://www.worldwaterfalldatabase.com/country/South-Africa/list

Nyami Nyami Mythical River god of the Zambezi River:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaQ_UpYwaNE