The Otters of Natal
So often during our travels, we pass through landscapes inhabited by remarkable creatures without ever knowing they are there. Elusive and secretive by nature, they remain hidden from view as we continue on our journey, completely unaware of the extraordinary wildlife sharing the same space.
On our recent trip through the Natal Midlands, we stayed at a venue called Otters Den – more about that later. The name immediately set me thinking about these delightful creatures, so seldom seen despite being surprisingly widespread.
As a young girl, I was captivated by Gavin Maxwell’s 1960 memoir, Ring of Bright Water. A lyrical and beautifully crafted classic of nature writing, it tells the story of Maxwell’s life in a remote Scottish cottage shared with his wild, mischievous and frequently destructive pet otter. His affection for this charismatic animal shines through every page, while his observations of its behaviour reveal a deep understanding of the natural world.
The book was widely acclaimed for its evocative prose and ecological insight, helping to introduce generations of readers to the charm and intelligence of otters. Some modern readers, however, may find aspects of the story disturbing and violent. Nevertheless, it remains one of the most beloved wildlife memoirs ever written. The book’s popularity led to a 1969 film adaptation, which brought Maxwell’s windswept Scottish landscape and his unforgettable otter companions to an even wider audience.
The Midlands, with its network of rivers, dams and streams, seems tailor-made for otters. And with trout abundant in many of these waters, it would appear to offer an ideal hunting ground. Trout, after all, are a nutritious and readily available meal for a skilled aquatic predator. Note that “African clawless otter” is the official global common name, while “Cape clawless otter” is a very common regional name, especially in Southern Africa. So, in effect, exactly the same animal!
That thought led to another. If otters find trout quite as irresistible as one might imagine, surely this places them on a collision course with the owners of the region’s valuable trout fisheries? They are also known to take poultry. Given the economic importance of trout farming and recreational trout fishing in the Midlands, I wondered whether the relationship between otters and the trout industry was one of coexistence or conflict. The answer is a little of both. Somewhat obviously, no one that I spoke to on my return to Johannesburg admitted to knowing anything about otters being persecuted. I have a feeling that it is one of those situations where, as far as possible, they are conserved. However, when an otter decimates most of the trout in a commercial dam, repeatedly – I’m willing to bet that, understandably, things don’t go well for that particular otter. It seems to be a subject which is an inappropriate topic of conversation, particularly as I am an outsider – and a journalist to boot. But the general vibe is conservation driven – which is great news!
That all said, all is not doom and gloom. There are 14 distinct species of otters worldwide, but South Africa only has two native otter species – the African clawless otter (Aonyx capensis) and the rarer spotted-necked otter (Hydrictis maculicollis). Both enjoy legal protection under a range of national and provincial conservation measures, so it is an offence to hunt, capture, injure, kill or otherwise disturb these animals without the necessary permits. Such protections reflect their importance as apex predators in freshwater ecosystems and as indicators of healthy rivers and wetlands.
Although neither species is currently considered to be in immediate danger of extinction across its entire South African range, both face growing pressures in many localised areas. Habitat loss and degradation, the pollution of rivers and wetlands, entanglement in fishing gear, road mortality, and conflict with humans all take their toll. As development increasingly encroaches on natural waterways, otters are also forced to navigate fragmented habitats and degraded water systems, particularly in urban and agricultural landscapes.
Conservationists regard otters as important barometers of environmental health. Where otters thrive, rivers are generally clean, fish populations are healthy, and aquatic ecosystems remain largely intact. Their continued presence in places such as the Natal Midlands is therefore encouraging, serving as a reminder of the ecological value of the region’s waterways and the need to protect them.
Otters Den is a self-catering retreat that deserves a special mention. I discovered it quite by chance and, intrigued by what I saw, decided it was worth a visit. It proved to be an excellent decision. Located just 13 kilometres from the village of Nottingham Road along the picturesque Fort Nottingham Road, Otters Den sits in the heart of the renowned Midlands Meander arts and crafts route. Each cottage is perched on a hillside overlooking a river, creating a wonderfully tranquil setting where guests drift off to sleep to the soothing sound of flowing water. The two cottages we hired were equally well appointed.
One of the standout features of Otters Den is the spectacular spa bath found in every unit, perfectly positioned to take in the beautiful river views. After a day exploring the Midlands, there can be few better ways to unwind than soaking in warm water while watching the river flow by. The bed was among the most comfortable I have ever slept in, ensuring a restful night’s sleep accompanied by the soothing sounds of the water below.
Our two cottages were immaculate and thoughtfully equipped for self-catering, making them ideal for a relaxed getaway. The compact kitchen has everything one could possibly need, while thoughtful touches such as fresh milk in the fridge and a supply of rusks make guests feel instantly at home. Heaters are provided for chilly Midlands’ evenings, while a charming fireplace creates an inviting atmosphere on colder nights. Although we had everything we needed to dine in, we chose to make the short trip back to Nottingham Road for dinner, giving us the best of both worlds – peaceful seclusion in a beautiful natural setting combined with easy access to the village’s restaurants, shops and amenities. Adding to the appeal is owner Christine, a warm and gracious host for whom nothing seems to be too much trouble. Her attention to detail and genuine hospitality help make a stay at Otters Den particularly memorable.
So, if you find yourself with a couple of days to spare – or even just a night en route to the coast – I highly recommend making time for a stay at Otters Den. It is one of those rare places that combines comfort, tranquillity and natural beauty in equal measure.
And, of course, there are the otters. Spend enough time quietly watching the river and you stand a very good chance of spotting the resident Cape clawless otters. Guests regularly report sightings of these elusive animals as they forage, play and frolic in the water below. We were not fortunate enough to see them during our stay but knowing they were there added a sense of anticipation and wildness to the experience. Even without an otter sighting, the peaceful riverside setting, abundant birdlife and spectacular scenery make Otters Den a destination well worth discovering.
Jacqui Ikin & The Cross Country Team
INFO BLOCK:
Otters Den Self Catering Cottages
Cell: +27 82 972 5537
Email: reservations@ottersdensc.co.za
https://www.ottersdensc.co.za
https://www.facebook.com/OttersDenSelfCatering/
Cape clawless otters:
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=24299910089683791
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1618321952872674
https://www.facebook.com/reel/1566409117799511
Cape Town’s “urban otters”:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xtth7gflu7Y
The Secret Otters of the Okavango: A Rare African Encounter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hODOcGuugT8
Spotted necked otters of the Chobe River
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmL2Hbq5cFw
Ring of Bright Water webcast:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0hprj7ELTI&t=40s
Ring of Bright Water Trailer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvop3ayFwBA
