The Most Dangerous Passes in South Africa – Sani Pass

In South Africa, we are blessed with some of the most beautiful passes in the world. To make a list, or somehow categorise them, is extremely difficult, as there are many criteria one could use. Some are extreme and remote, others less so. In this series, the passes have been chosen using varying ‘characteristics’, but they all have one thing in common – they are dangerous to drive. Sani Pass was chosen as the first, as it is the one that is arguably the most popular 4×4 pass in South Africa. Known as the “mother” of all South African mountain passes, it is often considered a weekend “jaunt”, which can, quite literally, become “life threatening”. Whilst not as extreme as some, Sani has claimed many lives over the years. 

In recognition of this, the South African authorities insist that you can only attempt the climb in a suitable all-wheel-drive vehicle, but Lesotho has a more laissez-faire approach – allowing almost anything to descend. We obviously don’t recommend this approach and would consider anything less than a 4×4 to be both stupid and reckless. The gravel surface is loose at the best of times, while in the winter months heavy snow and ice render Sani even more treacherous. Even in ideal conditions, the road is only open in daylight to avoid the additional dangers of driving in darkness.

Lesotho’s wool and mohair industry is steeped in history and tradition. The early settlers introduced sheep and Angora goats, which have been producing high-quality wool and mohair (a finer fabric with an eye-catching shine) since the 1800s! In the Eastern Highlands, a bridal path was developed in 1913 to serve as an important link between the Underberg district and the remote settlement of Mokhotlong in the  old Basutoland. This path served as an important link – traders brought wool and mohair down the pass on donkeys and mules, and they were exchanged for blankets, clothing and maize meal – the staples of life at that time. These days, more sinister trades are done in this part of the world – drugs (marijuana), guns and stolen livestock. In 2021, the Lesotho Minister of Home Affairs even appealed to staff at the Sani Pass border post to strengthen cooperation in a bid to prevent human trafficking! 

On 26th October 1948, Godfrey Edmonds (an ex-RAF Spitfire pilot from Kokstad) was the first person to ever drive the pass in a vehicle. This was before a road had been built, and the Willy’s Jeep, complete with a trailer carrying a payload of over 400 kg, took many hours of zigzagging, reversing and manhandling to ascend. Assisted by a team of Basotho people with mules, ropes and other equipment, the journey took somewhere between five and fourteen hours (accounts vary hugely). By 1955, a local Natalian, David Alexander, was using an ex British army Land Rover to take curious adventurers on the amazing climb up the Sani pass. He had formed a company called the Motkhotlong Mountain Transport Company. Incredibly, this company still exists (as Sani Pass Tours), but these days they use a Toyota Land Cruiser…

The Maloti-Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site is a “transnational” area spanning the border between the Kingdom of Lesotho and the Republic of South Africa. The property comprises Sehlabathebe National Park (6,500 ha) in Lesotho and uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park (242,813 ha) in South Africa. It is renowned for its spectacular natural landscape, importance as a haven for many threatened and endemic species, and for its wealth of rock paintings created by the San people over a period of 4,000 years.

For many years Sani Pass has held the record for the highest pass in South Africa at 2876 m. Relatively recently, however, a new pass (Ben MacDhui Pass) was opened – which summits at 3001m. The route up Sani Pass starts at 1,544 metres, and climbs 1,332 m to an altitude of 2,876 m. The average gradients are 1:20, but there are 1:3 / 1:4 (accounts vary) sections near the top, with mud, ice and snow possible at almost any time of the year. The pass itself  lies between the border controls of both countries and is approximately 9 km in length (depends on where you actually measure if from). If you’re a rally enthusiast, you will know that the first-ever “Roof of Africa” Rally (1967) went down Sani Pass to eventually end in Durban. The event, sponsored by The Star newspaper, was organised by the Sports Car Club.

The Sani Pass is a notoriously dangerous road, which is often underestimated. Many wrecks of vehicles can be seen in the gorges. The road is full of holes, loose rocks and gravel, and enough significant hairpin bends to make your stomach churn. There are no rails to stop your descent into the deep ravines should you miscalculate, and rescues are notoriously difficult. That said, this spectacular Sani Pass 4×4 trail has been proclaimed as one of the most epic road trips and the best road trip for thrilling scenery by Lonely Planet.

So, what tips would we give you in terms of driving Sani Pass? Whilst there are no specific, consistent obstacles that require detailed advice, there are a couple of general pointers which will make your life easier:

• Ideally, get some 4×4 experience / training before attempting the pass. 
• Always check with authorities / local business owners as to conditions on the pass before attempting the pass.
• Go prepared for bad weather at any time – expect snowfalls as late as October. Snow has apparently fallen here in every month of the year, albeit not in the same year. Very few South Africans have enough snow driving experience – so rather avoid in inclement weather.
• You need your passport to clear South African and Lesotho border control points.
• To drive the road (without stopping)  will take most people between 2.5 and 3.5 hours.
• Allow enough daylight hours to appreciate the view and get some good photos.
• Note that ascending cars and pack mules have right of way.

When you reach the summit, you can indulge in something hot and a bite to eat in the highest pub in Africa (at an elevation of 2,876 m). At the time of writing, the road has been tarred from Underberg / Himeville all the way to the foot of the pass itself – the remainder has yet to be tarred. So do it sooner rather than later if you’re up for an adventure. The endless views and breathtaking beauty make this pass a “must do”. 

Plan accordingly, do your homework and above all, Stay Safe!

Jacqui Ikin & The Cross Country Team