Saguni Safari Lodge
In the very early hours of the morning, I wake suddenly. After a moment of orientation (the mosquito net is the clue), I remember that I am at Saguni Safari Lodge in the Khwai area. I lie still, wondering what woke me. Then, in the distance, I hear it again – lions calling. That profoundly primal sound that raises the hairs on the back of your neck – particularly if you’re in tents with no fencing. It’s a wonderful feeling, but from past experience, I also know that it is impossible to tell how far or close the lions are, and resolve to remain in my tent until after the dawn, when the staff are up and about…
Lions spend most of their days relaxing in the shade, and their nights patrolling and hunting…
Nearby, something is wading in the river – perhaps one of the hippos that have been making a noise all night, or one of the large elephant bulls that seem to call the surrounds of the camp home, spending their days enjoying the cool water and the greenery. Slowly the deep darkness morphs into a pale grey light as the dawn nears. The birds start chirping and a rather loud, insistent buzzing begins. Initially I think the mosquitoes have taken it up a notch, then remember that many of the trees are now in flower and it is the bees hard at work.
Some of the crocs along the Khwai River were enormous…
Although the heat is heading towards summer temperatures (most days are somewhere between 35° C and 40° C), the rains are still far away. This early in the morning, however, there is that faint smell of petrichor (the earthy scent produced when rain falls on dry soil), which taunts you into believing that, just perhaps, there has been a sprinkling of rain. But no – it’s simply the cool air on the dusty environment creating a similar aroma.
This little chap diligently followed his VERY pregnant mom around like a shadow…
It is only September now, and the worst of the heat is still ahead. One can understand why October is called ‘suicide month’ – the longing for rain in a drought, day after day, must become an almost physical yearning, which in truth is unlikely to be fulfilled until later in November. The rains in the past years have sometimes come as early as the last week in October, but this year all bets are off. Even last year’s rains barely happened…
This impala ewe’s skin is already stretched tight across her belly…
The impalas in the area are mostly pregnant now, and the rutting season is over. I lie and contemplate the difficulties they are going to face. Traditionally, they can delay the births by up to a month, waiting for the rainfall to ensure the survival of their young. But what happens in a drought? How long can they delay, especially considering the fact that food sources are already scarce. Impalas are mixed grazer-browsers, so perhaps they have more chance than those who exclusively graze or browse…
This beautiful waterbuck female was photographed off the Khwai bridge leading into the Moremi.
Whatever was wading is long gone, but the birds are now properly warmed up and singing their little hearts out. I think that is what I love most about the bush – there is always some creature getting up to something interesting. One can sit for hours in a good spot and be consistently entertained for hours on end. The good spot on this day was, for the moment, my veranda. The lodge overlooks the ‘Mbudi Lagoon’, in the beautiful game-rich area of Khwai, and my tent was one of the Luxury River Tents – which meant that I could sit on my veranda (or even lie in bed!) and game view to my heart’s content.
The veranda of my tent had some of the best views out there…
The afternoon before, we had explored the concession area, which amongst a couple of other sightings, produced a young female leopard sleeping in a bush. As the heat of the day abated, she slowly stretched, surveying her territory and listening intently, after which she headed out. We were grateful to have experienced some time with her, and left her to do whatever it was that she had on her mind…
A rare and beautiful creature…
In the evening, we visited a hyena’s den which about 20 cubs of varying ages called home. The adults return in the early morning and again just after dusk to suckle the cubs, leaving them to their own devices during the daylight hours, when they are seldom seen above ground. Night drives are one of the distinct advantages of a concession, as you are not allowed to drive after dark in the parks – either the Chobe or the Moremi.
This tiny little fellow was VERY young, and mum kept her newborn some distance from the others…
Time was ticking on, and game drives awaited, and so I quickly grabbed a deliciously warm shower and headed to the communal area for a light breakfast before climbing aboard the game viewer. As discussed in the previous column, we spent the day in the Moremi Game Reserve, entering at North Gate – which was about 15 mins down the road.
Sunset in the Moremi at a waterhole – complete with the obligatory G&T sundowner.
Saguni Safari Lodge is situated in Moremi East in the Okavango Delta. The Lodge itself overlooks the ‘Mbudi Lagoon’, in the beautiful game-rich area of Khwai. In the evenings, a large fire is made on a purpose-built patch of sand. Whilst we relaxed and contemplated our magnificent day, one of the large elephant bulls soundlessly materialised from the bush like a large grey ghost, on his way to drink from the Sable River. He spent about 45 minutes there, just chilling and then silently glided back from whence he had come.
Saguni Safari Lodge is nestled on an ‘island’ of mature riparian trees…
It is said that the name ‘Saguni’ is a bushman/San name for Khwai, meaning “an area with abundance of game and spectacular sights”. Which is a very apt name for this environment. Khwai is one of my favourite places in the world, and when I first visited the area in 1998, I was infatuated – an affair that has stood the test of time. This visit is no different, and I once again experienced everything that originally appealed – and fell in love all over again…
They say ‘God is in the detail’ –Saguni Safari Lodge paid attention …
Saguni Safari Lodge has 13 Forest Tents and 8 Luxury River Tents, custom-designed and built in harmony with the island environment. The River Tents are on the riverfront with stunning views over the Sable River and the Forest Tents are nestled under the canopy of trees.
Somehow the word “tent” simply doesn’t cover the luxury of this wood and canvas accommodation…
Whilst the mornings and the evenings are spent out and about exploring the environment, for the remainder of the time, relaxation of the highest order is encouraged. After a delicious brunch, a siesta is the order of the day – or perhaps even a splash in the pool. One could also grab a good book, and while away the hours in the comfortable lounge overlooking the river – perhaps with an ice-cold liquid at hand…
The comfortable lounge – perfect for lazy afternoons…
Whilst one can drive in from Maun, I would highly recommend flying. You get a bird’s eye view of the Delta and in a very short space of time, you are landing at some lonely little airstrip. Often the pilots have to buzz the runway to clear the game, after which you land. From there it is a mere 15-minute bumpy ride on a game drive vehicle – the adventure literally begins as you get out of the plane. MackAir services the Delta, and I highly recommend them. Their efficient and friendly staff make the journey an absolute pleasure. Maun airport is quite literally abuzz with their fleet at this time of the year…
Our plane arriving to collect us.
Whilst the vast majority of the Okavango Delta was dry when it should have been flooded, there were sporadic patches of more permanent stretches of water. One can only hope that the rains and the floods come on time, hopefully sooner rather than later. This little piece of paradise sorely needs water, which is its lifeblood…
Some of the more permanent patches of water in the Okavango Delta.
If you choose to treat yourself to a break, and the wilderness is your choice, I cannot recommend a better spot. In her poem “The Dance”, Oriah Mountain Dreamer comments “I will take you to the places where the earth beneath my feet and the stars overhead make my heart whole again and again”. This is just such a place…
Jacqui Ikin & The Cross Country Team
INFO BLOCK:
An African Anthology
https://anthology.co.za/saguni-lodge
Call: +27 (011) 568 4264
Email: sales@anthology.co.za | res@anthology.co.za
