Adventures at Sea

Adventures at Sea

The clothing of the era. Can you imagine how hot and unwieldy it must have been to wear this on a ship in the tropics?

Can you imagine the courage it took to set sail from a perfectly good home and head off into the great unknown? You would be acutely aware that if you didn’t find the lands you thought may be out there, you will simply die of thirst and slow madness… These brave men were in a different league all together. One of  the greatest of these Portuguese pioneers who explored the Atlantic Ocean during the 15th century was Bartolomeu Dias.

A whale skull on the lawns of the Bartolomeu Dias museum’s lawns.

Ptolemy (born c. 100 ce—died c. 170 ce) was a Macedonian general of Alexander the Great – an Egyptian astronomer, mathematician, and geographer of Greek descent who flourished in Alexandria during the 2nd century ce, firmly believing that the Indian Ocean was land locked.

Some of the beautiful works of art on the walls – all depicting the great ships of the era.

In 1474 King Afonso V of Portugal entrusted his son, Prince John (later John II), with the supervision of Portugal’s trade with Guinea and the exploration of the western coast of Africa. He sought to close the area to foreign shipping and, after his accession in 1481, he ordered new voyages of discovery to ascertain the southern limit of the African continent. He gave his navigators stone pillars (padrões) to plant, thereby staking the claim of the Portuguese crown. 

Many, many treasures of all kinds are to be found in this fascinating museum.

One of his first navigators (Diogo Cão) planted a stone pillar 200 km southwest of Lobito, at Cape Santa Maria, in Angola. He was ennobled, rewarded and once again set sail. His final stone pillar was planted on a headland in the South Atlantic on the Skeleton Coast, Namibia – known as Cape Cross. After that, he was never heard of again!

The shell of a giant clam.

Enter Bartolomeu Dias, who was ordered to find the southern limit of Africa. His fleet consisted of three ships: his own São Cristóvão, the São Pantaleão under his associate João Infante, and a supply ship under Dias’s brother Pêro. This expedition included some of the leading pilots of the day, among them Pêro de Alenquer and João de Santiago, who had earlier sailed with Cão. Dias left in August 1487 and returned in December 1488 – spending 16 months and 17 days away from home.

Stunning images tell the tales…

On 3rd February 1488 Bartolomeu Dias discovered that he had sailed past the southern-most point of Africa. A strong wind had driven him so far south of Cape Point that he did not see it and had to sail northwards to reach the coast. Dias’ discovery paved the way for Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India. 

View of the deck.

He landed at  the Bay of St. Blaize, now known as Mossel Bay. Here he took in fresh water and bartered live stock from the Khoikhoi. The Post Office Tree (where seafarers from centuries ago posted letters home using a cleft in an ancient tree as a post box) signified that ships had called regularly at the bay for watering and other purposes. 

The Post Office Tree, a famous milkwood tree (Sideroxylon inerme) that was used by early Portuguese explorers as a post office.

Thus, in 1488, Dias became the first European navigator to round the southern tip of Africa and to demonstrate that the most effective southward route for ships lies in the open ocean, well to the west of the African coast. By doing this he disproved Ptolemy’s view of the Indian Ocean being land locked.

An artistic explanation of The Spice Trade.

The Mossel Bay museum was first opened  in the 1960s. The museum later became known as the Post Tree Museum complex before being renamed again in 1989. The Bartolomeu Dias museum complex was officially opened on 3 February 1989, a name which is still used today. This is actually a collection of smaller museums, all very interesting and worth of a visit. There is safe parking in front, lovely lawns and gardens, complete with benches with a beautiful view.

Perfectly lovely sea views…

The Shell Museum and Aquarium houses the largest mollusc exhibit in Africa. There are a few live molluscs and other small aquatic animals on exhibit. Erected in 1902 (next to the Post Office Tree) as an extension to the old mill, this building was mainly used as a store. 

Keepsakes from the Union-Castle Line…

In later years Mr. Joe Shirley used the building for his plumbing business, after which it became known as the Shirley Building. In 1987 it became the Shell Museum. The upper level boasts a collection of terrestrial, fresh water and marine shells from all over the world and apparently holds the largest South African display of shells.

Extensive shell collections.

The cowrie collection.

When did you last just take a moment to contemplate the perfection and the beauty of a shell?

The Maritime Museum building, dating from 1901, served as a wheat mill and a sawmill before it was converted into the Maritime Museum in 1987. Inside is a life size replica of the 1488 Bartolomeu Dias Caravel (a light sailing ship of the 15th – 17th centuries in Europe, much-used by the Spanish and Portuguese for long voyages). This one was built for the 1988 500-year commemoration of Dias’s voyage around the southern tip of Africa. These were the first deep-sea ships, characterised by the Christian cross appearing on their sails, used by Portuguese seafarers on trade voyages.

The life size replica of the 1488 Bartolomeu Dias Caravel with the characteristic Christian cross appearing on the sails.

The Portuguese Sail & Training Association (APORVELA) was tasked to build a ‘caravel-type’ ship for the planned commemoration. The historical appearance of the caravel was maintained in the design of the topsides, deck arrangement, steering gear, masting, rigging and sails. Below deck, however, “the design was adapted to allow for modern sleeping arrangements and a motorised engine. The historical 15th-century design did not make provision for sleeping arrangements.”

Ian Georgeson, our CEO, enjoying the museum…

‘The replica caravel was built in the shipyard of Samuel & Filho’s in Vila do Condo, in Portugal. The hull was made of pine and oak and its width equals the width of a modern tug. It had a displacement of about 130 tons, which included 37 tons of ballast, made up of concrete and granite blocks from Lisbon. The ship has two masts and two lateen sails.

No 9A, Century Studio Camera, Rochester, N.Y. On display on the floor above the boat.

In 1988, the voyage took three months from Portugal to Mossel Bay. An engine was also installed to make sure the caravel arrived on time for the festival that took place on 3rd February 1988. During the restoration of the building in 1987, an opening was left in the back wall. After the caravel was partially disassembled in 1988, she was hauled on greased sleepers and lifted inside the museum with hydraulic machinery.’

Jørn Utzon was a Danish architect, who modelled the Sydney Opera House on the cock’s comb oyster. Who knew?

Within the complex is also the historic Post Office Tree. ‘Pedro D’Ataide’s ship, part of Pedro Alvares Cabral’s third fleet, became separated from the other ships along the east African coast in 1500. D’Ataide landed at the “watering place of São Brás” (present-day Mossel Bay). He left a letter in a Portuguese sailor’s shoe tied to a tree here.

The shoe-shaped post box where you post your letters – located right at the old Post Office Tree.

It was declared a provincial heritage site. In 1963, the local tourism organisation placed a large post box, shaped like a sailor’s boot, next to the tree where visitors can post letters and postcards. A special frank is used on all outgoing mail to commemorate the fact that South Africa’s first post office was a tree.’ I remember sending a postcard from this spot when I was about twelve years old and was excited as all hell when it arrived back in Jozi. Such a great memory…

An icing sugar Caravel made by Mrs Edith Conway. It took 140 hours, and 14 kgs of Hulett’s Sugar to make.  

It is less than 60 km from George to Mossel Bay, and I highly recommend the detour to see this museum! On the day we went, we were unfortunate enough to get caught up in the mother of all traffic jams on the R102 (Louis Fourie Road). We thought there was only the one road in and out of George. On closer inspection, and in retrospect, there appears to be another road (the extension of Louis Fourie Road) which joins up with the N2 the other side of town… So go past George on the N2 and then cut back on the next offramp. You live and learn (you know, because “how bad can it be???”). It was bad. Learn from our mistake. Look at live maps to navigate your way in/out of town – the roadworks look to be taking quite some time…

And finally, the man himself… Bartolomeu Dias.

Jacqui Ikin & The Cross Country Team

INFO BOX:
Bartolomeu Dias Museum Complex
1 Market St, Mossel Bay Central, Mossel Bay, 6500
Phone: 044-691-1067

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